Apr 4, 2023·edited Apr 4, 2023Liked by Corinne Fay
I’m just going to add that this is even harder for neurodivergent disabled people who have to have 100% cotton, no special fabric and ideally dye free underwear. I wear ones from Vanity Fair and I fudge the dye free part because the white ones wear out so quickly (pale blue lasts the longest). I don’t have a bubble butt so they feel a little baggy there especially by the end of the day. And I agree with the issue about gusset and fat labia. It’s also an issue for things like panty liners which aren’t wide enough but at least for me I don’t need them to be longer so longs don’t help. Anyway, this definitely resonates and I do daydream about getting hand fitted for an entire ensemble and opening my own line of slow fashion timeless clothes for fat people of all genders. It’s a nice daydream.
Fat labia! I hadn't ever give it a name, but I definitely have one. I'm a size 28 with an apron belly and my favorites right now are from Universal Standard. When I got them, I immediately compared the gusset to my old standby Lane Bryant briefs and it was so much wider. They even have a thong that covers my belly and doesn't make me feel like I'm being flossed by my undergarments. I do wish they had some different fabric options - they're all a thin modal/cotton/elastane - but if I want coverage that feels like I'm not wearing anything, they're my go-tos.
For anyone interested in sewing their own underwear the following pattern companies are size inclusive, come in a variety of styles, have well drafted patterns with detailed tutorials and video sew alongs and very helpful Facebook groups if you get stuck or want to see what a particular pattern looks like on a wide range of body types: Rad Patterns, Stitch Upon a Time and GreenStyle (and of course the already mentioned Muna and Broad).
PDF Plotting is one of the cheapest and quickest places to get PDF patterns printed out if you don’t have access to a printer or just don’t want to tape pages together.
I am a sewist and make a lot of my own clothing. And yet, I could never have imagined spending time and money making underwear. Except that, like you, I had spent so many years in ill-fitting, sweat-inducing undies that I had to try. I now have an underwear drawer that consists of exclusively Muna & Broad (high-rise Kapunda Undies and the Dulcie Boxer Briefs). I also use exclusively bamboo spandex knit-it's super soft and breathable but doesn't bag out like cotton does. It is literally life-changing to not have to think about my underwear after I put them on anymore. I realize that this is not a solution for everyone -fat people should just be able to buy well fitting underwear in a store! But I'm with Corinne that if you can sew or have ever thought about trying it, underwear is an easy and supremely rewarding project.
Here are a couple of other options for lingerie/underwear fabrics!
US: Bra Builders; here are their bamboo jersey knits for knickers: https://www.brabuilders.com/collections/jersey-knits They specialize in prints, as well as color-matching elastics and findings for knickers and bras. They also sell patterns and kits.
Sweden: B,Wear; https://www.bwear.se/en/ Carries cotton, cotton/spandex, and bamboo jersey, as well as lots more. Their tagline, fair warning, is "by woman for women" in their logo.
Also, I just looked at the 2023 Bra Sewing Bee classes, and there is a class specifically about fitting undies to fat bellies and altering patterns! Guess I know what I'm doing this August...
I buy un-bras (38H) from Decent Exposures. American woman-owned and -run company making cotton comfortable non-body fascist clothing. Very nice folks! https://decentexposures.com/Bras
The best ones I've purchased were from Mood Fabrics. They tend to have different ones at different times and I can't vouch for this particular one but it looks good and has good reviews: https://www.moodfabrics.com/black-stretch-bamboo-jersey-314902
Fabric Fairy and Natures Fabric are both US based small business online fabric stores with really nice quality bamboo spandex knit fabrics in a variety of colors. I have underwear I’ve made with their fabrics that’s 2 years old and still going strong. I’m not gentle on them either, wash cold and throw in the dryer on high, and they still have excellent recovery and no annoying pilling.
I'm a sewist and I need to try this. My current underwear were ok enough that I got rid of all my other ones and bought two 10-packs, but my body shape has shifted with menopause and they no longer fit well.
I have SUCH sadness about not getting any What Lydia Made undies!!! I was in the last order group she ever took when she shut down the undies side of her work. 😭😭😭 That said, Lydia referred people to @pantywitch and she makes GOOD undies (though they are pricey).
I loved this piece, and it is deeply similar to my experience of undies. THANK YOU.
I don’t pretend to speak for all British people, but I can tell you that I find the fact that Americans call knickers “panties” hilarious and adorable ☺️
Oh this post really resonated and made me feel so seen. Cacique is my current best option, and... yep. Even the high rise pairs (which are amazing! So much better!) still have all the other problems you talk about here.
What's funny (in that "I have to laugh or else I will cry" way) to me is that last year I discovered the Bra Sewing Bee (brasewingbee.com) because I was fed up with how my bras never fit right and had exhausted all the options I could find, so I said "fine I will do it MYSELF". And the Bee also has classes on making knickers! And I never once thought about making knickers beyond "it would be nice to have fancy lacy ones that fit", and not "yeah actually none of your knickers fit you correctly either." So I guess I will be making some Kapundas shortly as well.
I remain so torn between anger that if I want clothes to fit, that I have to make them myself, and being glad that's an option for me. Sometimes I think the entire concept of ready to wear, off the rack clothing was a mistake.
Just wanted to jump on here with a plug for Molke - they are UK based but ship internationally, are super size inclusive and comfortable, and are now the only bras I wear for my ridiculously sized boobs (honestly they've changed my life!) - I've heard great things about their pants too! https://molke.co.uk/
I feel all of this! Corinne, the way you feel about ARQ is the way I feel about Eby — they’re the best I’ve been able to do, but I’m in between sizes & they are too expensive to not be at least close to perfect. (And forget the expense of everyday underwear — for me it’s the expense of TRYING OUT all these brands that will probably disappoint you.)
This newsletter arrives at the perfect time for me, I’ve been struggling with underwear now that my body has changed after baby #2. The fat labia bit! Is so real! And liberating to know others struggle with that too! I’ve always wanted to sew my own clothes and I’m seriously considering starting with underwear, thank you!!!
I actually wear MeUndies. I’ve tried a bunch of brands over the last 6-7 years, and I haven’t anything that works as well. I wear the boy shorts, so nothing hangs out the bottom or sides. Like you said, that’s the biggest problem: belly or labia hanging out the leg holes or gusset. They fully cover my stomach and bum, and they never slide down. Plus! I am a 2x/ size 20, and I wear a large. I probably could even wear a medium. They are soooo comfy, and have lots of options: neutral, colors, and patterns!! They are about $14/pair, and you can set up a subscription too, which is fun.
So fun to read a piece by Corinne! Thank you for writing. I've been wanting to dust off my sewing skills, and this is a good motivator to make some fun stuff that fits my body!
Huh, I never would have realized this is a problem. I ride the line between midfat/superfat, and the Torrid and Cacique fit models must have my exact proportions because I find their underwear super comfy. So thanks for talking about something that's never talked about!
Those Muna and Broad patterns look niiiiiice. I've wanted to get better at sewing clothes, and that robe pattern looks divine.
I will never, ever be a person who sews, but all I want are high waist briefs with a gusset that comes forward and a waist that stays up and legs that don’t bind. I have tried Cacique but the waistband is too tight. I am making do with Soma cotton modal briefs, but they tend to roll down and aren’t size inclusive. If anyone has a lead, please let me know! I am all ears.
I tried panty drop and the gusset was too wide for me 😔 It bunched up and made the panties loose. I can make do with my favorite cachique undies, but they definitely don't fit my large belly/leg connection well. This is a real problem (I'm a US size 18).
I’m just going to add that this is even harder for neurodivergent disabled people who have to have 100% cotton, no special fabric and ideally dye free underwear. I wear ones from Vanity Fair and I fudge the dye free part because the white ones wear out so quickly (pale blue lasts the longest). I don’t have a bubble butt so they feel a little baggy there especially by the end of the day. And I agree with the issue about gusset and fat labia. It’s also an issue for things like panty liners which aren’t wide enough but at least for me I don’t need them to be longer so longs don’t help. Anyway, this definitely resonates and I do daydream about getting hand fitted for an entire ensemble and opening my own line of slow fashion timeless clothes for fat people of all genders. It’s a nice daydream.
Fat labia! I hadn't ever give it a name, but I definitely have one. I'm a size 28 with an apron belly and my favorites right now are from Universal Standard. When I got them, I immediately compared the gusset to my old standby Lane Bryant briefs and it was so much wider. They even have a thong that covers my belly and doesn't make me feel like I'm being flossed by my undergarments. I do wish they had some different fabric options - they're all a thin modal/cotton/elastane - but if I want coverage that feels like I'm not wearing anything, they're my go-tos.
Okay I’ve been wanting to try the US ones but I was afraid the fabric would give me the heebie jeebies!! How is the fabric??
It's super soft and thin. I prefer a thicker fabric, but it is comfortable and you don't really feel them at all.
They're decent. I have a fewpairs
For anyone interested in sewing their own underwear the following pattern companies are size inclusive, come in a variety of styles, have well drafted patterns with detailed tutorials and video sew alongs and very helpful Facebook groups if you get stuck or want to see what a particular pattern looks like on a wide range of body types: Rad Patterns, Stitch Upon a Time and GreenStyle (and of course the already mentioned Muna and Broad).
PDF Plotting is one of the cheapest and quickest places to get PDF patterns printed out if you don’t have access to a printer or just don’t want to tape pages together.
Yes, sewing is my special interest 😅
I am a sewist and make a lot of my own clothing. And yet, I could never have imagined spending time and money making underwear. Except that, like you, I had spent so many years in ill-fitting, sweat-inducing undies that I had to try. I now have an underwear drawer that consists of exclusively Muna & Broad (high-rise Kapunda Undies and the Dulcie Boxer Briefs). I also use exclusively bamboo spandex knit-it's super soft and breathable but doesn't bag out like cotton does. It is literally life-changing to not have to think about my underwear after I put them on anymore. I realize that this is not a solution for everyone -fat people should just be able to buy well fitting underwear in a store! But I'm with Corinne that if you can sew or have ever thought about trying it, underwear is an easy and supremely rewarding project.
I’d love to know where you’re getting the bamboo / spandex knit!
Here are a couple of other options for lingerie/underwear fabrics!
US: Bra Builders; here are their bamboo jersey knits for knickers: https://www.brabuilders.com/collections/jersey-knits They specialize in prints, as well as color-matching elastics and findings for knickers and bras. They also sell patterns and kits.
Canada: Bra-Maker's Supply; their knits are here: https://www.braandcorsetsupplies.com/product-category/fabrics/cotton-rayon-wickable-fabrics/ They have 100% cotton, cotton-spandex, and bamboo jersey. More solids. The owner also apparently has a Craftsy course on custom knickers. Fair warning, their tagline is "uplifting women, every day".
Sweden: B,Wear; https://www.bwear.se/en/ Carries cotton, cotton/spandex, and bamboo jersey, as well as lots more. Their tagline, fair warning, is "by woman for women" in their logo.
Also, I just looked at the 2023 Bra Sewing Bee classes, and there is a class specifically about fitting undies to fat bellies and altering patterns! Guess I know what I'm doing this August...
!!!!! That is amazing
I buy un-bras (38H) from Decent Exposures. American woman-owned and -run company making cotton comfortable non-body fascist clothing. Very nice folks! https://decentexposures.com/Bras
The best ones I've purchased were from Mood Fabrics. They tend to have different ones at different times and I can't vouch for this particular one but it looks good and has good reviews: https://www.moodfabrics.com/black-stretch-bamboo-jersey-314902
Fabric Fairy and Natures Fabric are both US based small business online fabric stores with really nice quality bamboo spandex knit fabrics in a variety of colors. I have underwear I’ve made with their fabrics that’s 2 years old and still going strong. I’m not gentle on them either, wash cold and throw in the dryer on high, and they still have excellent recovery and no annoying pilling.
I'm a sewist and I need to try this. My current underwear were ok enough that I got rid of all my other ones and bought two 10-packs, but my body shape has shifted with menopause and they no longer fit well.
I have SUCH sadness about not getting any What Lydia Made undies!!! I was in the last order group she ever took when she shut down the undies side of her work. 😭😭😭 That said, Lydia referred people to @pantywitch and she makes GOOD undies (though they are pricey).
I loved this piece, and it is deeply similar to my experience of undies. THANK YOU.
I don’t pretend to speak for all British people, but I can tell you that I find the fact that Americans call knickers “panties” hilarious and adorable ☺️
Oh this post really resonated and made me feel so seen. Cacique is my current best option, and... yep. Even the high rise pairs (which are amazing! So much better!) still have all the other problems you talk about here.
What's funny (in that "I have to laugh or else I will cry" way) to me is that last year I discovered the Bra Sewing Bee (brasewingbee.com) because I was fed up with how my bras never fit right and had exhausted all the options I could find, so I said "fine I will do it MYSELF". And the Bee also has classes on making knickers! And I never once thought about making knickers beyond "it would be nice to have fancy lacy ones that fit", and not "yeah actually none of your knickers fit you correctly either." So I guess I will be making some Kapundas shortly as well.
I remain so torn between anger that if I want clothes to fit, that I have to make them myself, and being glad that's an option for me. Sometimes I think the entire concept of ready to wear, off the rack clothing was a mistake.
Just wanted to jump on here with a plug for Molke - they are UK based but ship internationally, are super size inclusive and comfortable, and are now the only bras I wear for my ridiculously sized boobs (honestly they've changed my life!) - I've heard great things about their pants too! https://molke.co.uk/
Ooooh they look very cool! Definitely want to try.
I feel all of this! Corinne, the way you feel about ARQ is the way I feel about Eby — they’re the best I’ve been able to do, but I’m in between sizes & they are too expensive to not be at least close to perfect. (And forget the expense of everyday underwear — for me it’s the expense of TRYING OUT all these brands that will probably disappoint you.)
This newsletter arrives at the perfect time for me, I’ve been struggling with underwear now that my body has changed after baby #2. The fat labia bit! Is so real! And liberating to know others struggle with that too! I’ve always wanted to sew my own clothes and I’m seriously considering starting with underwear, thank you!!!
I actually wear MeUndies. I’ve tried a bunch of brands over the last 6-7 years, and I haven’t anything that works as well. I wear the boy shorts, so nothing hangs out the bottom or sides. Like you said, that’s the biggest problem: belly or labia hanging out the leg holes or gusset. They fully cover my stomach and bum, and they never slide down. Plus! I am a 2x/ size 20, and I wear a large. I probably could even wear a medium. They are soooo comfy, and have lots of options: neutral, colors, and patterns!! They are about $14/pair, and you can set up a subscription too, which is fun.
So fun to read a piece by Corinne! Thank you for writing. I've been wanting to dust off my sewing skills, and this is a good motivator to make some fun stuff that fits my body!
Huh, I never would have realized this is a problem. I ride the line between midfat/superfat, and the Torrid and Cacique fit models must have my exact proportions because I find their underwear super comfy. So thanks for talking about something that's never talked about!
Those Muna and Broad patterns look niiiiiice. I've wanted to get better at sewing clothes, and that robe pattern looks divine.
Corinne, I love your writing! Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Came here to say the same thing! I love your writing and essays Corinne!
I will never, ever be a person who sews, but all I want are high waist briefs with a gusset that comes forward and a waist that stays up and legs that don’t bind. I have tried Cacique but the waistband is too tight. I am making do with Soma cotton modal briefs, but they tend to roll down and aren’t size inclusive. If anyone has a lead, please let me know! I am all ears.
I tried panty drop and the gusset was too wide for me 😔 It bunched up and made the panties loose. I can make do with my favorite cachique undies, but they definitely don't fit my large belly/leg connection well. This is a real problem (I'm a US size 18).
I wonder if Torrid undies would work for you? Their gusset was too small for me, but if PD was too big for you, the Torrid ones might work.